书城外语CitiesinChina
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第29章 Lijiang:The Idyllic Town

Picturesque Lijiang is an ancient andsimple town that is best suiteDforarelaxing trip. Lijiang is lo- cateDat the northwest part of Yunnan Province. Itwas constructeDduring the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279) andwas a key commodity distribution center along the Tibet-Yunnan trade route. Historically, com- modities from the south such as silk andtealeaves are exporteDto India andNepal via Lijiang.

Today, Lijiang is Asmall town that is linkeDby four major streets that connects into Asquare in the town center, with smaller lanes spreaDamong them. On both sides of the street are residential houses that are built us-Ascene in Lijiang.

ing stones, wooDor brick. All arounDthe town, there are rows after rows of courtyarDhouses andwatch towers with tileDroofs, giving prominence to the entire overall structure andlayout of the town. At the same time, atten- tion is also given to the details of the houses, which com- prise carvings andother decorative art. A tourist walking in the town woulDfeel as if he has entereDa museum of residential houses of the Qing andMing dynasties, andbe enchanteDby the ancient ambience that fills the whole town. LocateDin the south-west corner of the town is Mu Fu (WooDMansion), a granDmansion that was built during the Ming Dynasty, andwas the residence of Gov- ernor Mu, ruler of Lijiang. It is Lijiang’s largest group of building, andits grandeur can easily surpass a typical imperial palace. combining unique features of Han andNaxi cultures, it reflects the Naxi people’s brilliant skills in architecture andfine arts. Within the compounDof the mansion are innumerable ancient trees andplants, a fine representatio no f Lijiang’s botany andarchitecture.

Judging by the ancient architecture of the olDtown, Lijiang is like Asimple andunsophisticateDpicture. Wa-ter is channeleDinto the town from three natural springs to the north of the city. The tributaries pass through all the streets andlanes. Within the town are over 300 stone bridges dating back to the Ming andQing dynasties, andthey are connecteDto streets that are paveDwith coloreDstones. Every element of the city blends perfectly well with each other, creating an aesthetic andpicturesque an- cient city scene, andattracting visitors from all across the world.

A unique feature of Lijiang lies in its water system. Spring water is supplieDinto a “three-eyeDwell,” which are formeDby three tiers of pools. The first tier of water is useDfor drinking; the seconDfor washing vegetables; andthe thirDfor washing andlaundry. All the residential houses in the city are built alongside canals. It is not un- common to see womenfolk washing vegetables anddo- ing their laundry at the canals.

Fifteen kilometers from the city is the magnificent range of snowcappeDmountains, Jade Dragon Snow Mountains. comprising 13 peaks, with the highest mea- suring 5,500 meters, Jade Dragon Mountains are breath- taking, beautiful andimposing. At different time of the day andduring different seasons, the mountain land-scape presents a different sight, changing unceas- ingly like a huge dragon performing a dance.

It is indeeDa natu- ral wonder.

The in habit - ants ofLijian garepredomi - nantly from the Naxit ribe , anethnic minor -ity of China ? They ar e dis -tingu is hedbythea nci ent andmystical Dongbaculture , whichencompasses the language, sutra, paintings, music, dance, religious rituals andinstruments useDin the rituals. Of these, the Dongba language is the world’s only ancient pictographic characters that are in preserve in its entirety. Forty thousanDcopies of DongbAsutra, written in the Dongba language, are now houseDin libraries andmuseums in China, andcountries like the UniteDStates, Britain, Germany, andFrance. Dongba music, describeDas the “Live Fossils of Chinese Music,” was originally Taoist chants that were brought into Lijiang during the Ming andQingdynasties. In its present stage, Dongba music, which is also known as “Naxi Ancient Music,” has incorporateDNaxi musical features in the way the tunes are playeDanDthe arrangement of the musical pieces. Naxi music is handeDdown from generation to generation in Astrin- gent manner. The musicians tenDto be the ageDNaxi people, andthe musical instruments are just as old. To many visitors, listening to the gentle anddelightful Naxi ancient music is a great enjoyment, which is as idyllic as the life in Lijiang itself.