书城外语世界名牌大全(英汉双语版)
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第49章 皮具(2)

In 1950, Paid vacations accompanied the democratization of holidays. Lancel launched the first “supple” luggage Kangourou: a Lancel exclusivity which included an external pocket and was built out of light Nylon canvas. Just like the Frères Jacques witnessed, comedians fought over the Kangourou suitcases: “thank god for the road shows, so that we can have the joy of putting our tired heads away in beautiful Lancel bags”.

In the summer of 1929, Salvador Dalì met his inspiration, his muse, Gala. It was crazy, exacerbated and excessive Love. He created a secret language belonging only to them, an alphabet of love, and the “daligramas”. In the 70s, Lancel interpreted the Daligrams through the creation of the Dalì, a unique collectors bag dedicated to Gala, the handle of which was a bicycle chain, the symbol of sincere devotion between two energies headed in the same direction.

In 1987, the Bucket bag was re-edited under the name Elsa by Lancel and quickly became one of the Maisons best sellers. This bag has already conquered several million women.

Lancel celebrated its 130th anniversary and repositioned itself by concentrating its activity on leather goods. Alice Taglioni, the blond muse of french cinema, and Laure Manaudou, olympic champion, became the Maisons embassadresses. The Maison also relaunched its fetish bucket bag that would then become the brands icon, the Premier Flirt.

In 2008 Isabelle Adjani became the Maisons next charming embassadress and with her was the creation of a mythical handbag: The Adjani.

2010-Brigitte Bardot. BB is a legend big enough to inspire the story of a bag. And who is better than Lancel to tell that story by creating, with Brigitte Bardot, the Bag, which evokes her tastes, her life, her figure It is the fusion of absolute femininity and awareness of nature -a pioneer, just as BB herself is and always will be.

Exceptional Leathers

Lancel has been a leading light since 1876 for leather-working skills and the exceptional quality of materials it uses. The Houses artistic development has always been centred on exploration of innovative materials and techniques.

The Houses workshops devote particular care to selecting the finest leathers. Tanned with vegetable extracts, full-grain leather is then died using custom-made pigments. More than 20 different crafts are involved in the creative process. From cutting to assembly and from underlining to the final touches, Lancels craftsmen dedicate their talent and passion to style and unparalleled excellence.

The suede detail on limited edition Dalidol in python is embellished with laser etching using a unique, environmentally friendly technique developed specifically for Lancel. This technique reveals the leathers natural colour without changing its quality and highlights the Daligramme symbols. Precious materials, skilled draughtsmanship and an exclusive technique combine to make this numbered edition a truly unique design.

ornament [‘:nmnt, :nment] n. 装饰品,装饰物

full-grain [‘fulɡrein] adj. 【材料学】全粒面革的

laser etching激光刻蚀

draughtsmanship [‘drftsmnp] n. 制图术

兰姿的殿堂,创立于1876年。创始人安吉拉,是一位集智慧、远见和勇气于一身的女人。当年,她选择巴黎闹市区一角,在新落成的歌剧院旁边开店。她的经营重点很快从烟具转到了女性的饰品和挂件上。恰与当时迭起的时尚风潮不谋而合。

随着兰姿将设计重心转向饰品及挂件,她成功地用第一款手袋取代了传统的女式钱包。在时尚激越勇进的20世纪20年代,兰姿的创意达到了顶峰。随着她的精品店从1900年的10家递增到1917年的17家,兰姿的橱窗成为了居家装饰品、钟表、珠宝、扬声器、照相机等物品的最佳陈设区,而随着远洋邮轮和长途旅行的兴起,兰姿的箱包也从此踏上了辉煌的历程。

1927年,兰姿发布了具有传奇色彩的水桶包;作为法国灵尚的标志,她在2006年以Premier Flirt的姿态,重新照亮了时尚舞台。在1929 年,兰姿总部迁至巴黎歌剧院大厦,占据四楼之多,这也是今日兰姿全球旗舰店的所在地。在Albert Lancel先生从母亲手中继承兰姿的产业后,他决定把疆土扩展到具有广阔前景的奢侈皮具品制造业。Albert始终恪守兰姿建立初期时的信条:勇于探索,富于想像,忠于原创……兰姿迸发创意的旺盛期,就在两次世界大战之间。社交界的时尚男女,对充满现代感的新设计充满渴望,而Lancel则不断用最新的款式,超越他们的期待:从自动打火机到Aviona行李箱,乃至雨伞包,无不标榜着那个时代的潮流前沿。

1950年,假日旅行的风靡,启发兰姿创作了第一款名为“Kangouro”的旅行箱。新颖的轻型尼龙帆布材质,加上兰姿首创的外侧袋设计,令无数演艺名伶争相抢购。正如Frères Jacques所回忆的那样:幸亏我们经常要到外地演出,才好有机会把我们疲惫的脑袋搁在兰姿旅行箱好好享受一下!

1929年夏天,萨尔瓦多·达利(Salvador Dalí)邂逅了他的灵感源泉、缪斯女神和妻子——加拉(Gala)。他们之间产生了疯狂、激烈、令人难以形容的爱情。达利甚至创造了一种专属于他们两人的爱情字母密语——daligramas。 70年代时,为了演绎Daligramme,Lancel专门创造了独一无二的收藏级手袋“Le Dalì”,并将它献给加拉。这款手袋创新地采用自行车链条作为手柄,意喻志同道合的两股能量间真挚的依恋之情。

1987年,兰姿重新打造水桶包,冠以Elsa之名。 一时间迅速热销,居当时店内各款销量之首。迄今为止,这款包已征服了全世界几百万女人的心。

在兰姿庆祝创建130周年之际,品牌重新定位,将重心放在皮具上。法国电影的金发缪斯Alice Taglioni和奥运冠军Laure Manaudou,共同成为代言“法国灵尚之美”的兰姿大使。同时,兰姿殿堂将其时尚偶像“水桶包”改版重新推出,令Premier Flirt成为后来的品牌标志。

在2008年,Isabelle Adjani成为Lancel殿堂的新一代大使,而因她推出的Adjani,成为手袋中新的神话。

2010-Brigitte Bardot。身为一个传奇式的人物,碧姬芭铎足以成为一款名包背后的故事。而除了Lancel,还有哪个品牌能用名包来诠释芭铎的品位、演绎芭铎的个性、映衬芭铎的身姿?以芭铎命名的包,首次将纯粹的女性主义和自然主义完美结合,这种先锋派的行为,正是芭铎所一直奉行和信仰的。

优质的皮革

自1876年以来,兰姿品牌因出色的制皮工艺和品质卓越的材料脱颖而出。品牌的艺术开发一直以研究材料和革新技术为核心。

品牌的工作室精心挑选最精美的皮革。使用植物提取物鞣制之后,立面皮革经过特制色素染色。设计程序共有二十道工序的参与。从切割到装配,从轧光到精心装饰,兰姿品牌的工匠为追求新颖的风格和卓越的品质倾注了全部热情和才华。

Dalidol巨蟒限量版款式的牛面革收尾工序饰有激光压印,这一全新的技术专门为兰姿品牌开发,十分环保。激光可展现皮革的固有颜色而不损伤皮质,同时可显露Daligramme的标志。珍稀材料、精确绘图和独一无二的技巧使这一限量版系列成了独特经典的设计。

3.(瑞士)巴利 Bally

品牌名片

品类:皮具、时装

标志风格:精巧、摩登、时尚

创始人:卡尔·兰斯·巴利(Carl Franz Bally)

诞生地:瑞士

诞生时间:1851年

创立伊始,巴利就成为世界上第一家真正的全球奢华产品公司,代表品味、价值和品质。螺旋边烤花皮鞋、靴子上的铜扣,鲜红的边线都是巴利的招牌风格。

品牌阅读

Bally Switzerland: Modern craftsmanship since 1851

The Bally hallmark is the crafting of exquisite leather. Since 1851, Bally has been globally recognized for its Swiss Made quality and its contemporary style.

Bally: Swiss Roots, Global Perspective

The visionary founder, Carl Franz Bally, whom employees used to call Papa Bally, set the global brand phenomenon in motion. His vision: to create exquisitely crafted footwear in the finest materials that are divine to look at, whilst simultaneously functional and enduring.

Bally: Pioneer of Luxury

Production had reached a staggering 3.9 million pairs of shoes a year. Bally was committed to pushing the envelope in terms of elegance and luxury.