WE saw but little of the commons of the isle.At first we met them at the well,where they washed their linen and we drew water for the table.The combination was distasteful;and,having a tyrant at command,we applied to the king and had the place enclosed in our tapu.It was one of the few favours which Tembinok'visibly boggled about granting,and it may be conceived how little popular it made the strangers.Many villagers passed us daily going afield;but they fetched a wide circuit round our tapu,and seemed to avert their looks.At times we went ourselves into the village -a strange place.Dutch by its canals,Oriental by the height and steepness of the roofs,which looked at dusk like temples;but we were rarely called into a house:no welcome,no friendship,was offered us;and of home life we had but the one view:the waking of a corpse,a frigid,painful scene:the widow holding on her lap the cold,bluish body of her husband,and now partaking of the refreshments which made the round of the company,now weeping and kissing the pale mouth.('I fear you feel this affliction deeply,'said the Scottish minister.'Eh,sir,and that I do!'replied the widow.'I've been greetin'a'nicht;an'noo I'm just gaun to sup this bit parritch,and then I'll begin an'greet again.')In our walks abroad I have always supposed the islanders avoided us,perhaps from distaste,perhaps by order;and those whom we met we took generally by surprise.The surface of the isle is diversified with palm groves,thickets,and romantic dingles four feet deep,relics of old taro plantation;and it is thus possible to stumble unawares on folk resting or hiding from their work.About pistol-shot from our township there lay a pond in the bottom of a jungle;here the maids of the isle came to bathe,and were several times alarmed by our intrusion.Not for them are the bright cold rivers of Tahiti or Upolu,not for them to splash and laugh in the hour of the dusk with a villageful of gay companions;but to steal here solitary,to crouch in a place like a cow-wallow,and wash (if that can be called washing)in lukewarm mud,brown as their own skins.
Other,but still rare,encounters occur to my memory.I was several times arrested by a tender sound in the bush of voices talking,soft as flutes and with quiet intonations.Hope told a flattering tale;I put aside the leaves;and behold!in place of the expected dryads,a pair of all too solid ladies squatting over a clay pipe in the ungraceful RIDI.The beauty of the voice and the eye was all that remained to those vast dames;but that of the voice was indeed exquisite.It is strange I should have never heard a more winning sound of speech,yet the dialect should be one remarkable for violent,ugly,and outlandish vocables;so that Tembinok'himself declared it made him weary,and professed to find repose in talking English.
The state of this folk,of whom I saw so little,I can merely guess at.The king himself explains the situation with some art.'No;Ino pay them,'he once said.'I give them tobacco.They work for me ALL THE SAME BROTHERS.'It is true there was a brother once in Arden!But we prefer the shorter word.They bear every servile mark,-levity like a child's,incurable idleness,incurious content.The insolence of the cook was a trait of his own;not so his levity,which he shared with the innocent Uncle Parker.With equal unconcern both gambolled under the shadow of the gallows,and took liberties with death that might have surprised a careless student of man's nature.I wrote of Parker that he behaved like a boy of ten:what was he else,being a slave of sixty?He had passed all his years in school,fed,clad,thought for,commanded;and had grown familiar and coquetted with the fear of punishment.
By terror you may drive men long,but not far.Here,in Apemama,they work at the constant and the instant peril of their lives;and are plunged in a kind of lethargy of laziness.It is common to see one go afield in his stiff mat ungirt,so that he walks elbows-in like a trussed fowl;and whatsoever his right hand findeth to do,the other must be off duty holding on his clothes.It is common to see two men carrying between them on a pole a single bucket of water.To make two bites of a cherry is good enough:to make two burthens of a soldier's kit,for a distance of perhaps half a furlong,passes measure.Woman,being the less childish animal,is less relaxed by servile conditions.Even in the king's absence,even when they were alone,I have seen Apemama women work with constancy.But the outside to be hoped for in a man is that he may attack his task in little languid fits,and lounge between-whiles.
So I have seen a painter,with his pipe going,and a friend by the studio fireside.You might suppose the race to lack civility,even vitality,until you saw them in the dance.Night after night,and sometimes day after day,they rolled out their choruses in the great Speak House -solemn andantes and adagios,led by the clapped hand,and delivered with an energy that shook the roof.The time was not so slow,though it was slow for the islands;but I have chosen rather to indicate the effect upon the hearer.Their music had a church-like character from near at hand,and seemed to European ears more regular than the run of island music.Twice Ihave heard a discord regularly solved.From farther off,heard at Equator Town for instance,the measures rose and fell and crepitated like the barking of hounds in a distant kennel.